
In
the past, I’ve had rayon garments that continue to shrink
and lose their shape. What makes your rayon different?
Is
your fabric colorfast?
Does
your rayon fabric shrink?
A
lot of your colors seem so dark. Why is that?
How
can I tell the right from the wrong side of batik fabric?
Are
the workers in your factory in Bali treated well and paid fairly?
Why did you name one of your
designs "Secret Weapon"?
Q. In the past, I’ve
had rayon garments that continue to shrink and lose their shape. What
makes your rayon different?
A. There are many types of rayon
fabric on the market. We have probably all made or bought garments of
inferior quality rayon that have been a disappointment. However, the
rayon used in our little factory is referred to in Indonesian as “#1AA
quality” rayon. The close weave and smooth surface help it keep
its shape, avoid shrinkage and make it superior to work with, care for
and wear. We pay more for this rayon than from other sources, but the
quality speaks for itself.
TOP
Q. Is your fabric colorfast?
A. Most of our fabrics are very colorfast and we have
had no reports of fading. However, a couple of them have been overdyed
(e.g. the red and navy “lilies” and “effect” co-ordinates)
to get the desired intensity of color. We suggest you pre-wash your
fabric separately; then after sewing the garment, wash separately again,
to ensure all the excess dye from the surface is removed. You won’t
lose the intensity of the original color.
TOP
Q. Does your rayon fabric
shrink?
A. Because the fabric
has been in and out of wet dye baths, sometimes several times, and dried
after each, some shrinkage has already taken place. However, the
fabric will shrink a further 8-10% if machine washed and dried (which
we recommend). We recommend pre-washing for this and other
reasons including to remove excess dye and wax residues left on
the fabric from the batik process. The selvedges may have also
been stretched out of shape from hanging to dry and pre-washing brings
them back into shape.
TOP
Q. A lot of your colors
seem so dark. Why is that?
A. The small batik factory we design fabric with in Bali
is run by a very ethical family. The factory owner is reluctant
to use bleach in his dyeing processes for two reasons: one, he
is concerned about the health of his workers and secondly, he wants
to protect the environment. Because of this, many of our designs
have dark or black backgrounds. Recently however, the factory owner
has developed other dyeing techniques which permit dark images
on lighter backgrounds. We are very fortunate to have this innovative
fiber expert working with us!
TOP
Q. How can I tell the right
from the wrong side of batik fabric?
A. Because our batiks are hand-dyed and not screened, checking
the selvedges will not help you. Instead, look at the image and compare
the two sides. The right side should have a clearer image without
little “specks” – places where the
wax applied to the right side of the fabric did not completely soak
through to the wrong side. Also, the background colors, if mixed,
will be more interesting and clearer on the right side. And if you
can’t decide, then that’s okay too – just be consistent
when cutting your pattern pieces out. The great thing about batiks
is for garments where the wrong side will show, they look wonderful
on the right and wrong side!
TOP
Q. Are the workers in your
factory in Bali treated well and paid fairly?
A. We are always happy to answer this question. The small
factory we design fabric with employs only 17 workers and is a family-run
operation: a mother, father and two adult sons. Some of the workers
and their families live right in the factory compound and it is not
uncommon to see young children playing near where the fabric is hung
to dry in the sun. The factory owner is like a father to his workers
and is a good businessman as well. He is a philosophical man with
great respect for others. We affectionately call him our “Bali
Lama”! He pays his workers more than they would earn at other
factories so they will stay with him and learn his methods well.
He wisely realizes that if the workers are hungry or concerned about
where their next meal will come from, they cannot concentrate on
their work. Every day at noon the factory shuts down so the Muslim
workers can go to the temple to pray. Before leaving, the factory
owner gives them an allowance for lunch. Those remaining behind,
the Hindi or Christian workers, are provided food for lunch that
they prepare themselves. They take a break until the Muslim workers
return, then work is resumed. The factory workers appear very content
and are made to feel comfortable coming to their employer with any
problems or mistakes they may have made – together they arrive
at a solution. When we go to Bali on our designing trips, we spend
many enjoyable hours at the factory working with this large “family” of
workers and making our fabric dreams a reality. We are always careful
to tell the workers how much the fabric they helped create is enjoyed
by our customers and how much their skill is valued by us. We have
a wonderful relationship with “our little factory”.
TOP
Q. Why did you name one of your designs "Secret Weapon"?
A. Secret Weapon is magical... Not only do you get a muted colorway
of the original coordinating fabric (often with some black toning it down)
so it's perfect for trim, pants or a skirt...but you can choose which
side of the fabric to use. One side will have more color; the other side
will have more black (or the background color). That's why it's your "secret
weapon"! |